Rozes “Over 40 Years Old” Tawny Port Southern

“The NV Tawny Port “Over 40 Years Old” was just bottled in September 2015. It comes in at 155 grams per liter of residual sugar and was bottled with a bar top cork. Laced with seared molasses, bitter chocolate, a bit of treacle and some whiffs of brandy, this doesn’t have the richest mid-palate of the “40s” in this report, but it is unctuous in texture and it certainly holds its own (and then some) in aromatics and complexity–with that medley of concentrated flavors that long-aged Tawnies acquire. Perhaps no other 40 in this report seemed quite as old. They don’t seem to be kidding about that “over 40 years” name on the label. António Saraiva advised that “there is a certain percentage of 1937 single harvest, which makes all the difference.” Some older tawnies lean more to the decadent, some more to the complex flavors. This is clearly more in the latter category. It has a certain, intellectual demeanor, especially early on. The acidity keeps this alive and freshens it, mingling with the spirits and the sugar to make a nice whole. I confess that on first tastes, I wasn’t a believer here. For one thing, it was clearly an outlier. Yet, the complexity won me over. I began to think this was quite wonderful. It also seemed far better, much smoother, after a week open. (And perhaps even more than most, it needs to be drunk on the cooler side, around 57 degrees Fahrenheit.) If it’s not as sexy as some or as rich, the flavor medley on the long, lingering finish makes it very intriguing as well as delicious. This is a super bargain if the modest Suggested Retail Price (for a 40 Year Old) translates into good street prices. (I’ve seen it higher, though.)” Robert Parker 94 Points